Stopped by the supply house yesterday morning in Phoenix to grab a capacitor and there was this younger tech talking to the counter guy about a fridge that wasn't cooling. He said he was just gonna replace the main control board without even checking the thermistor or the condenser fan first. I wanted to say something but I bit my tongue. It reminded me of when I first started out 8 years ago and I did the same thing on a Whirlpool side-by-side. Ended up swapping two boards before I found out it was just a dirty condenser coil. That cost the customer an extra $200 for parts they didn't need. Has anyone else noticed newer techs skipping the basic diag steps and going straight for the expensive fixes?
It was a cheap old Brother model Ive had for years, but I had to stop and pry out the ribbon with a tiny screwdriver. That tape was stuck tight, took me about 15 minutes to get it running again. Anyone have a go to label maker that doesn't do this?
Has anyone else wasted half a day chasing a ghost only to find out it was a hairline fracture you needed a 10x loupe and bright light to spot?
Went with the generic to save 80 bucks on a 10 year old unit. Thing ran loud for 3 days then seized up. Customer wanted her money back and I had to eat the labor. Has anyone else had better luck with off-brand compressors or am I just asking for trouble?
I went to a house last week where the customer said their fridge was running nonstop. I pulled the kickplate off and the coil was caked in dust and dog hair. Took me 20 minutes with a brush and vacuum to get it clean. The kicker is the homeowner said they 'clean under there all the time' but they were just spraying some foaming cleaner on it. That does nothing for the actual dust buildup. I've been doing this 12 years now and I swear newer techs skip this step too because they figure newer fridges don't need it. Has anyone else noticed the same thing with customers or younger repair guys?
I was fixing a leaky washer for a customer in Oak Park last Tuesday, and when I pulled the machine out I found the rubber supply lines were original from like 2006. They had those little cracks near the brass fittings that you can't see unless you really look. I told the guy he needed new braided steel lines before they burst and flooded his basement. He said he'd think about it, and I just shook my head lol. Has anyone else had a call turn into a flood prevention talk out of nowhere?
I've been swapping out compressors on 10-year-old units that still run fine, but the ones from 2016 onward seem to burn out after 3-4 years max. Is anyone else seeing this trend with the inverter models in their shop?
Been repairing commercial ice machines for about 5 years. Last month I had a call at a diner where the same model had been through 3 repair guys in 6 months. Turns out I was overtightening the water inlet valve screws every time. They strip out after a few months. Old timer at a parts counter in Charlotte tipped me off. Anybody else have a simple fix they missed for way too long?
The lady told me it was "barely used" but when I opened it up the lint trap housing was packed tight with burnt lint and fuzz. Has anyone else run into a hidden fire hazard like this that wasn't obvious from the outside?
I figured a machine's a machine, right? Blew out the compressor on a 3-ton Lennox last July and had to buy a new one for $400 out of pocket. He was dead on, the pressures are just too different.
I had a Samsung fridge call in my area last Tuesday where the main board was toast. Pulled it out and three capacitors were bulging like crazy. Homeowner had it plugged into a $12 power strip from a discount store. This is the fourth time in two months I've seen surge damage from garbage strips. I told them to get a real surge protector with a joule rating over 1000 next time. Anyone else seeing more of these failures lately?
I was just cleaning out my van and counting old parts for scrap when I realized I had a pile of 12 drain pumps from the last month alone. Did the math and figured out I've swapped over 500 since I started doing this full time 4 years ago. Most of em are the same LG and Samsung models with socks or coins lodged in the impeller. Anyone else keep track of their most replaced part?
Tried swapping a control board on a Frigidaire fridge last Tuesday and the compressor just stopped dead no hum nothing. Anyone else run into a board that kills the whole system instead of fixing it?
I was going through my work log last night because I'm trying to get my taxes straight, and I counted up all the compressor replacements I did in 2024 so far. It came out to 87 units. That's almost 2 a week and I never really thought about it until I saw the number on paper. Most of them were on those cheap top-freezer fridges from around 2018, the ones with the R600a refrigerant that seem to fail right after the warranty runs out. I had to sit there for a minute and just stare at the list because I never step back and look at the big picture like that. Has anyone else ever totaled up a specific repair type for a year and gotten surprised by the count?
I saw a post here last month where everyone was praising FLIR cameras for finding bad relays. Tried a cheap $40 thermal cam attachment on my phone for a fridge compressor that was cycling on and off, it showed a hot spot on the start relay that looked obvious. I still think most of the time your multimeter plus a good listen tells you the same thing, but that one job last Tuesday changed my mind a little. Anyone else find these things actually save time or just a gimmick for most calls?
I swapped a burned out compressor on a 3 year old Samsung last Tuesday, figured the relay was fine, and it arced out within 10 minutes. Turns out the relay gets brittle and loses contact after a hard failure, even if it tests okay. Anyone else just replace the whole start assembly now to save a callback?
I had a Samsung washer I couldn't figure out why it was throwing an error code. Turns out a kid's sock was jammed in the drain pump filter, took me 2 minutes to fix after I finally checked it. Do you always pop the filter open before you start troubleshooting?
I was cleaning a driveway in Denver last spring and this older guy comes out yelling at me to back off. He said I was 2 feet too close and ruining his concrete. I stepped back to 4 feet like he said and the surface actually cleaned up way better without those lines. Made me rethink how I approach every job now. Anyone else had a customer call you out on something you thought you had down?
Spent 6 hours at a rental in downtown Portland chasing a thermal fuse that tested fine but was actually intermittent. Has anyone else run into a part that passes the multimeter but fails under real load?
I had a Samsung fridge I installed for a customer back in April 2022 and the compressor died just 14 months later. Customer called me saying it stopped cooling and I figured it was a bad start relay, but when I got there the compressor was locked up tight. Tried a hard start kit and nothing. Learned that Samsung had a bad batch of linear compressors around that time. Now I tell people to get a three year warranty or skip Samsung altogether if they can. Any of you guys run into this with the 2021 models?
They had a whole pile of microwaves with the same blown fuse, like 15 of them stacked up. Anybody else seeing a pattern with certain models or am I just unlucky?
Had a customer in Austin last month with an LG front loader that kept throwing a drain error. First time I cleared the pump filter, second time I found a sock in the drain hose, third time I finally noticed the drain pump itself was cracked. Took me three trips to catch it, which felt pretty dumb. Anybody else have a machine that kept faking you out with the same code?
Was working on a Samsung WA45N7250AW yesterday. Kept getting a slow fill. Checked everything. Inlet screens were clean. Pressure was fine. Turns out the fill valve itself has a tiny internal filter that clogs up. Never knew that. Cost me an extra 45 minutes. Anyone else run into this hidden filter thing?
I found this stat from a manufacturer tech bulletin last month that said over 70% of callbacks for 'dead compressors' were just bad relays, and since I started testing them first I've saved myself and customers a pile of money on unnecessary parts - has anyone else seen numbers that high in their own shop?
Honestly, I used to swear by my old analog manifold set, thought it was all I needed. But last month a guy from a supply house in Denver let me borrow his Testo 550 for a tricky R410A system, and I got it dialed in 20 minutes faster than usual. Ngl, now I'm looking at getting one of my own for the shop. Anyone else made the switch and noticed a big difference in accuracy?