I glued up a maple panel with a 1/8 inch gap on purpose to test a theory

Everyone says you need perfect jointing for glue strength, but I left a planned gap in a test piece using Titebond III. After clamping, the gap closed completely and the break test later showed the wood failed before the glue line. This was on a small cabinet door for my shop in Fresno. Has anyone else found modern glues are more forgiving than we're taught?

3 comments

3 Comments

hill.lucas2mo ago

You said the wood failed before the glue line. That's interesting. I'm curious about the gap itself. Was it a consistent 1/8 inch along the whole joint, or more of a small, localized opening? I wonder if the type of gap changes how well the glue can bridge it, even with a good clamp.

milalopez2mo ago

Honestly I get why you'd test it but I'd never trust a gap on purpose lol. Titebond III is strong stuff but you got lucky with that small piece. Try that on a big table top or something under real stress and I bet you'd see a different result. The old school rule about tight joints is there for a reason, especially when wood moves with the seasons.

the_wesley1mo ago

Yeah I've had to fill some gaps before when things didn't line up perfect. I mixed fine sawdust from the same wood with the glue to make a paste, clamped it good, and it held up fine. It's not my first choice but sometimes you gotta work with what you have. @hill.lucas makes a good point about the gap being even, that paste trick probably works better on a small, steady gap than a big wedge shaped one. For a huge table I'd want it tight too, but for smaller stuff a filled gap can be surprisingly strong.